Tuesday, July 31, 2012

July 23rd-July 27th. Getting acquainted with Gorgadzeebi

Today I began to explore the village after breakfast. The roads of Gorgadzeebi are mostly dirt, sometimes there is pavement or remnants of them. A car's suspension doesn't last long here. I walked north along a village path, soon running into a pair of women. I could only say "Gamarjobat" to them. I found out that one of the women is an English teacher who works in Chakvi, and the other is her mother, Neli. I wandered up the mountains. Later that day, Neli came by my home with her two grandsons, Giorgi and Giga. Later that day, I came over to their house and played soccer with them. They both knew some English, and would frequently say "What your name?"

The village has such a warm atmosphere, As I wandered up into the hillsides I met a family sitting outside their homestead. In broken English and in broken Georgian, I somehow remembered the phrase "ingliseli ena mastavlebeli var" or I am an English language teacher, and pointed back to Gorgadzeebi. Instantly we all understood and they invited me to drink with them. Reader, the top questions Georgians ask you is: Georgia is good, no? You like Georgian wine/vodka/chacha? (moonshine derived from grapes, similar to grappa) What your name?, Where are you from? Are you English or American? Georgian music/dance/women, you like?  Each time you answer any of these questions in Georgian, their faces light up, and the feeling of being welcomed soon follows. I am ashamed to say that I did not eat with them, I was a bit shy and didn't want to feel overwhelmed. Learning a language is a humbling experience. I am a college graduate, from UCSD, but that means nothing now. Here I have the vocabulary of a 5 year old and need to be led around by my host family or villagers. Later on I went back to say hello to that house, and to have a dinner with them...and three glasses of wine.

Georgian people on a whole are the most hospitable people I have met. At every house visited, I have had chocolate, candy, ice cream, fruit, tea, coffee, vodka and wine offered to me as soon as I sit down. I am not kidding, you do not go hungry here. When I am walking through the village, I am offered grapes, plums, and hazelnuts, which are everywhere. If I do go without eating, my own babia brings a half dozen plates out demanding "tchame, tchame Tariel!" which is the translates to "eat eat, Tyler!" Yes, there is an equivalent name for Tyler in Georgia, to the delight of everyone I meet.

I have also met more of the neighborhood boys. One in particular, Miriani and I are good friends. So far he has introduced me to dozens of houses and people all over the village. My days are usually spent hanging out with Miriani and his friends, doing small chores (I'm not allowed to help, just watch) going to the local river, or playing soccer. We are also going to go to the national park on Saturday and Sunday with a few other teenagers and Pridon, the school director. I am so excited! Adjara is beautiful in the costal foothills, but I really am curious to see some wilderness, not to mention cloud forest! The mountains east of Gorgadzeebi have been constantly covered in clouds since I've arrived here. I've never been backpacking in a  subtropical rainforest before stay tuned for some awesome photos.

Hanging out by the river is one of the best pastimes in Gorgadzeebi. It is hot here, and humid! The water though, is nice and cool. There is a swimming hole people converge on, where everyone swims, gossips, ask the American teacher questions. We also played a game of volleyball. I noticed the way people play sports here is much less competitive. It may be attributed to the small town atmosphere, but the volleyball game was more about keeping the ball active, and including everyone. I'm convinced that it is due to being in a small community. These people have been living together for generations, and will be continuing to live with each other for generations. Being nice is much more than being polite, it is essential for living in a small community.
This first week was a blast, in sum, Gorgadzeebi is perfect for me, and I am having an awesome time. There is lots to do, and I even have to slow down from time to time and study some Georgian or write home.
Roads of Gorgadzeebi, you can see the dog at the end of the road. Also a part of Gorgadzeebi.

I went back to that house that invited me to eat with them a few weeks later. They were having another feast and I was obliged to drink three glasses of wine. 

Miriani with the volleyball at the river.


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